Question: Can we take these fish and release them in a public pond?

There is a pond/creek located nearby that already contains fish. It is in a public park that is home to a bird sanctuary. The pond has a creek that brings freshwater into the pond, but a man-made concrete dam blocks the exit of that water (until it rains and the water overflows). It is home to several different types of fish, birds as well as turtles and other forms of wildlife (like Javelinas).

I’ve noticed people releasing off fish into the pond in the past. Everytime we visit the pond, we notice fish swimming around (and even jumping out of the water). In fact, there are people who actually feed fish in the pond.

The park is open to the public during the day and closes at dusk. The pond is surrounded by various trees, bushes and forms of vegetation.

Is it possible that these fish would survive in this environment?

We are actually trying to find someone to take the fish before we leave. However, we are interested in learning whether or not the fish would survive such integration into such a large pond.

Thanks for any help that you can offer! We love the fish, and we certainly wouldn’t release them if they don’t have a fighting chance to survive.
Thanks for all of the answers! I am going to do my best to find a good home — and I won’t release them into a pond.

If you have never had a pond before it pays to spend some time deciding what type of pond you want. Do you want an ornamental pond with a fountain? Or do you want a pond that attracts wildlife? If you are going to keep fish, will it be a specialised pond for keeping koi?

Depending on the answer to the above questions you then need to decide on the size and shape of pond. The other consideration will be maintenance in and around the pond that needs to take place once a week otherwise your hobby could turn into a chore. Don’t rush into a decision, as it could be a costly mistake.

A Pond for fish

There are lots of different fish that will live happily in a pond in your garden. There are goldfish, shubunkins, orfe and tench not to mention the famous koi. The pond will need to hold about 900 litres of water and should be at least 24 inches deep (this allows the fish to survive a cold winter). Koi need a great deal of space to thrive so make the pond as big as you can. Experience has shown that most people who start a pond will want to enlarge it sometimes twice more before they are happy with the size of pond. Large ponds are usually easier to maintain and the fish will thrive.

A Wildlife pond

In this more enlightened age, we are all encouraged to feed the birds and look after the wildlife we share our gardens with and creating a wildlife pond is a great way to do this. If you have a garden that gets lots of sun the majority of plants will prefer this situation, however, full shade is not a good position for a pond as the plants will not thrive. Some shade is needed and can be created by planting a deciduous tree in the correct place.

Types of pond

Liner ponds are probably the most widely used as you can create the size and shape you want (within the constrictions of the chosen site). The pond is dug out and an underlay is put down first to protect the pond liner from sharp objects that could puncture it and cause a leak. A concrete ‘collar’ needs to be constructed around the shape of the pond to give rigidity to the area if people are likely to stand on the edge of the pond. The paving or other material you chose to put around the edge of the pond will camouflage the concrete and the pond liner.

Rigid pond shells offer a convenient and trouble-free method of creating a pond. There are several different shapes to choose from and are light enough to enable you to move it around until you find a suitable position to place it. Make sure there are no tree roots or drains nearby that can interfere with the pond. Check for any damage i.e. holes or cracks before putting it in the ground.

A patio pond can be created using any form of rigid shape and a wall can be created around it. There are new shaped materials on the market that can be used to create the walls making job this much easier. The materials can be dry laid and this means you can move the pond in the winter. As you lay the walling ensure that it is level and upright as it would be unstable and could be dangerous and even fall over. If you want to add lighting or a fountain it’s a good idea to site it close to power points.

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The latest solar pump models work fantastically even when your pond water is not clean. It works as it has a solar panel that is detached from the pump itself. This is also beneficial because you can then be sure to place the panel where it will receive the most unobstructed sunlight. These pumps can be both submersible and external, so they are aesthetically pleasing while still being functional.

The last one I noticed at the market was even designed to resemble a lillypad. How cool!

Fountain pumps bring a great aesthetic to any still water. These are ideal for residential and commercial landscapes alike. I’ve even heard of farmers using fountain pumps to keep their livestock waterholes from going stagnate and overtaken by algae build ups.

Several models are great for waterfalls too. Nothing sounds more blissful than the burbling waters of your own backyard brooks. The feeling is simply transcendental when you return home to retire from a busy day at the office. It’s almost a perfect escape from the daily hussle and bussle. Who needs a vacation anyway when you host paradise in your very own backyard!

You’ll find pumps in a variety of sizes as well. From the smallest bird bath fountain to the largest cascading waterfall, these solar pond pumps fit for your every need. Whether you’d like a scale model of ‘Old Faithful’ in the backyard or just a bird bath on the patio, there are boundless possibilities to suit your vision and style.

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Escaping from the turbulent, chaotic mess of our everyday work schedule, itâ??s one of lifeâ??s finest rewards to simply recline in the luxury of your very own backyard. And in the midst of singing birds and sunshine, to hear the beautiful burble of cascading falls and rippling waters. No feeling is quite the same, nor as beautiful a sight.

Generally people become so tangled up with locating their new waterscape in just right spot or finding that perfect contractor, that they often forget to put any consideration into the pump that will power their new monument of splendor. While all those other things are important, your water pump is quite possibly the most essential piece you can find without the need of an expensive contractor. Especially with the popular solar options available today.

Some people just plug-and-chug using outlet power from their homes, but thatâ??s not only the least cost effective solution but also environmentally aloof. Thatâ??s right. Aloof.

One can save money as well as lessen the impact on the environment by installing solar powered pond pumps rather than using expensive power from the grid. The average American will spend $8 – $12 a year just powering their old water pumps. More sophisticated solar pumps generate their own electricity at no cost to you, and cleanly! The electric plants today are still too often using coal and leaving a massive carbon footprint on the earth. Donâ??t get stuck as one of the many who contribute to the abuse of our planet. The sunâ??s energy comes for free and is one of the best resources of electricity, not to mention completely carbon neutral. The solar phenomenon takes the burden off your pocket, and your ecologically aware soul!

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http://www.cnw.com/~ulicip/Pond/

Come on people I need lots of feedback and ideas.

would you finish it and fix the waterfal?
Would you take it out?
Plant something else?
change into a water fountain?
bird bath?
any other ideas.

If you enjoy working on projects, this is one that will not only add beauty to your property, it will be the perfect area for you to relax and unwind after a stressful day. The following tips will help you determine what type of backyard pond you want to build.

Consider whether you want a fish pond or a water garden. A larger pond will be required if you want to have both fish and plants. You should also think about the position of the pond in your backyard; are there any tree roots or rocks to interfere with it and is there electricity within reach if you are going to install a pump.

When building your pond you have three alternatives:

1. Preformed plastic pond – This is the least expensive way to have a pond in your backyard, and the easiest. This is perfect for the beginner with no experience.

2. Concrete basin – This is the most expensive way of constructing a pond and needs some skill to complete.

3. Basin with vinyl liner – This is less costly than building a concrete pond, but the skill level is still fairly high. This method can produce fantastic results, and you can create waterfall landscapes for a realistic look.

The biggest problem with using a vinyl liner in your pond is creating a layer of support that will protect it from damage once the weight of the water is applied. Avoiding damage caused by dogs, mice, birds, tree roots and rocks is also an added worry. The liner is fairly costly and installation can be difficult especially if you do not have any help. This is probably not what you want for a do-it-yourself project, especially if you are on a tight budget.

The easiest backyard pond solution for a DIY project is the preformed plastic basins. They come in a variety of shapes and sizes, just choose your design, take it home and place it in the hole you have prepared. You will be fairly restricted to the size of pond you can have but they are a great solution if you only require a smallish one. Most people find the sound of running water calming and relaxing so you can also add a waterfall to your pond.

Of course the choice is yours. If you consider yourself a handyman or can get an experienced friend to help then you can build a pond using any of these methods. All are beautiful, and with the addition of exotic plants and eye-catching fish will give you many hours of enjoyment, as well as added property value.

Even if you don’t possess the skills necessary to build a concrete or vinyl lined pond, you may have friends or know someone who could help. It all depends on your budget. If you have more to spend, your options are open. Decide what your budget will allow and what your preference is, and get started on a fun project – build a backyard pond!

*Cleaning

In a healthy pond, with a properly functioning nitrogen cycle, water changes can be minimal. I still recommend a water change of 10-20% per month on a healthy, fully functional pond. In a newer pond larger and more frequent changes may be necessary.

If your pond has a KH below 80 ppm and a pH below 7.0, I would first look to possible causes. One common one is the buildup of organic mulm on the bottom of the pond. The decomposition of this will produce nitric acids which will affect the pH and KH. Since most pond keeper have koi or goldfish, this is important to note, as both these fish do much better at a pH above 7.2 and need the calcium provided by the KH for proper osmotic function. See “Proper Calcium, Magnesium and KH in Aquariums” for more information about Calcium KH, and GH.

If a lot of leaves fall to the bottom of the pond vacuuming them or raking them out is important to prevent organic buildup.

Water changes also will help with pH and KH if your tap or well water is slightly alkaline and has a KH above 80 ppm.

*Feeding

Feeding a quality diet can be beneficial for growth, breeding, color, and eve the environment as there is less nitrogenous waste to add to the water column.

You want a food high in aquatic based proteins (although not too high in protein as most koi and goldfish are more “grazers”). Whole fish meal or white fish meal is a good source. An amino acid that is important to koi and goldfish is DL-methionine and is found in Whole fish meal as well as peas.

Cereal is not a good source of energy for fish as it is in humans, fish utilize fats more for energy. Cereal is mostly used as roughage and to move other nutrients thru the digestive tract.

In summer months I usually feed twice per day, as temperatures fall below 70 F in the pond I feed once per day. When temperatures fall below 60 F in the pond I feed every other day or less, depending on fish feeding habits. Below 50 F, I do not generally feed.

For adult Koi there are several quality foods available: Hai Feng, Sanyu, A-Zoo, Hikari, and Nursery-Pro just to name a few. For goldfish or shubunkins I recommend Spirulina 20 Flake, Hikari, or Sanyu. For fry (in addition to natural foods that will be available around the plant roots and other calm areas of the pond), I powder Spirulina Flakes and stir it into a cup of water, then pour this solution into the area the fish fry are at.

*Winter Pond Care

It is important in winter to keep at least a small section of your pond open for proper exchange of gasses (O2, CO2), if water can still flow into the pond through a water or aeration device, that will work. However if you live in an area of hard freezes, you may need a pond de-icer

*Pond Chemistry

Generally most Pond Fish such as Koi and Goldfish like a higher ph of about 7.8 (although a pH in the range of 6.8 to 8.0 is often acceptable). A well planted stable pond usually does not have problems with too high or too low a pH.

If your pH is too low, Sea Chem Marine Buffer can help (Wonder shells somewhat too). For large volumes of water, aragonite may be more cost effective.

For too high a pH, these are cost effective ways in a pond:

-Barley Straw (great for algae control too, although so-so for ph)

-Almond shells (this is really good for lowering ph, more effective than peat and with the side effect of being antibacterial)

-A veggie filter (this helps with a stable pH and produces nitric acid)

*Pond Bottom

Construction and make up of your pond can be done in three different ways (and there is no one best way; the best way fits your pond size needs, climate and budget).

A preformed pond is probably the most simple. With this method you basically dig a hole to the shape of the pond, remove sharp rocks, add sand for a cushion maybe cut a few holes on the size for bulk heads to add filtration and you’re ready to add rocks, filtration and décor. This style is good for small applications (usually under 250 gallons) and where roots or gophers may be a problem.

A pond liner made of PVC material or EPDM. I prefer the EPDM in a 45 mil. thickness.

With liners you can generally go up to a 1000 gallon pond. Preparation is similar to a preformed pond, however more care needs to taken with sharp rocks and a pre liner or sand should be used. Also in areas of high tree roots or gopher activity these can be compromised.

The other method is a concrete pond using rebar for support as well. This is probably the most expensive method however this is the method I recommend over 1000 gallons. I have subcontracted (installing the filtration) for many concrete ponds and it is important to use a good contractor or prepare and build this properly yourself as even a concrete pond that is poorly built can have problems. Make sure to not build a concrete pond on “fill” as the pond will often settle and crack. Also proper use of rebar is a must especially in ponds over 3000 gallons.

Bottom substrate:

I personally usually do not had a substrate per say, rather I allow the roots of potted plants (that will grow out of there pots) to collect there own debris. I do often add some zeolite or laterite both for absorption of some nutrients but also as an inexpensive plant root material.

*Spring Fed Pond

If you live in an area of natural springs or have creek flowing nearby, this can make for a very healthy, clear and natural pond. If it is possible to divert water into your pond (or just fill from below with a spring), this is always an excellent idea! This way you will likely maintain lower nitrates and phosphates, less algae, better Redox, and better electrolyte levels resulting in a more clear pond and healthier fish. Make sure to have an overflow or skimmer to remove excess water. If you have a well you can achieve similar results (or even use your well during the dry season when the spring or creek diversion dries up).

I also have achieved a similar effect with just plain tap water used in a very slow flow (a 10% water exchange per day or less will not show any ill effects from chlorine). Make sure this is not a problem with local water companies first, although the ponds I used tap water overflow on used less than 200 gallons per day (for a 2000 gallon pond) which is less than watering one’s lawn for an hour.

If with this method, filtration and circulation are still needed in my experience, although this often allows for a more simple filter (such a the Hydro-Pond Sponge Filter). A Veggie Filter is very usefull in this set-up too!

*Pond Predators

Herons have been the most common predator to my customer’s ponds that I have had to deal with. I do not like to add anything that detracts from the beauty of the ponds I maintained, so decoys were my first choice. I found Heron decoys worked well at not only scaring away Herons, but other predatory birds as well such as Cormorants. I also occasionally employed motion sensor scarecrows that connected to a water supply and then squirted ANYTHING that moved, this device also worked for dogs that would “play” in the pond (often destroying it and scaring fish), but was not as effective for raccoons.

For my full Pond Care Article, please follow this link:
A CLEAR POND; Pond Information

A In my experience of over 25 years, 4 to 5 feet is ideal. You need a minimum of 3 feet for koi fish for several reasons. Safety for fish from wading cranes they can not wade in 3 feet of water. Plus the water temperature in shallow ponds fluctuates too much with the changes in ambient temperature. The greater the volume of water, the longer it takes for the temperature to change. Warm water or fluctuating temperatures are unhealthy for fish.

Q What is the ideal size for a pond?

A The ideal size would be determined by the size of your yard. Its size should be proportional to the size of the yard. Also, the larger the pond, the greater the maintenance.

Q What is your opinion on using a liner to construct a pond rather than using a hard molded or concrete one.

A My recommendation is and always has been to use concrete. However, if you are on a tight budget or do not plan on living there for an extended period time, a liner would be recommended. In this case, you would have to add a thin layer of mortar between the liner and soil to prevent tree roots, ground squirrels, rats, mice, gophers or chipmunks from compromising the liner. The hard molded, preformed plastic ponds become brittle from the sun’s UV rays in just a couple of years. No good!

Q What type of pond filter do you recommend?

A That cannot be answered simply because many factors are involved. Do you have an existing pond with a submersible pump or above-ground pump? What’s the volume of the pond? Do you have fish, and if so, how many? What size plumbing pipe is being used? This is so involved, I have devoted an entire chapter in my construction manual to the subject. I have an 8000 gallon pond with above-ground pump and I use a pressurized biological bead filter. It takes 2 minutes to back flush with the turn of a handle and keeps my pond crystal clear.

Q I have tons of algae hanging from the rocks in my falls and growing in clumps in my hand. What can I do to get rid of it?

A When the first Polynesians settled in Hawaii between 300 and 600 AD, they were probably very annoyed by the aggressive, wild, pervasive taro plant, just like you are your algae. They tried to chop it down, burn it, stomp it, but to no avail. It just came back, so they eat it, and still do to this day. In fact, it’s a staple like peanut butter is to some Americans. Just kidding! However, if you told me it was watercress I would suggest eating it. Many pond stores will try to sell you a very expensive algaecide to solve your problem, but all you need to do is increase the salt content of your water. Some experts recommend one pound of rock salt to every 100 gallons of water. This will not hurt your fish; in fact, it will help to produce a healthy shine coat. However, it will harm most of your plants if you apply that dose all at once. Plus the dead and decaying algae will deplete the oxygen and this will harm your fish. Apply it slowly over a week or two, and be patient. It takes longer to kill it this way, but your fish will appreciate it! This topic is also a chapter in my construction manual.

Q Should I keep salt in my pond on a regular basis?

A If you maintain a specific gravity of 1.000, your fish will be less susceptible to ulcer and fin rot. And you will keep the algae from getting out of control.

Q I am considering building a waterfall between my house and my neighbor’s against the fence. Will the sound of the falls annoy them if I let it run 24 hours a day?

A The sound generated by a waterfall is called white noise, which is very relaxing and soothing, not annoying. I have several hundred clients who leave their falls running 24/7 and none have ever had a neighbor complain. In fact, they all appreciate the fact that they did not have to spend the money to enjoy the sound.

Q How many koi fish can I put in my pond?

A The amount could range from 150 to 250 gallons per fish. If you are starting out with small 6″ to 8″ long koi, they can reach 2 feet in three years, depending on how much food and how often you feed them. They could even grow to over 3 feet long! The overcrowding of fish produces stress and a lot of waste material. It can reduce the health of the fish and result in various diseases. Also, a less crowded pond is more pleasant to look at.

Q Do I really need a filter in my pond?

A Not in every case. If your pond is small and you have any guppies or mosquito fish and adequate water plants covering 1/3 to ´ of your pond, your pond will clean itself by means of the nitrogen cycle. The biological aspects of pond chemistry is well covered in my waterfall and construction manual.

Q How long do koi fish live?

A The average life span of koi in Japan is 70 years. Some have been known to live to 100 or more, such as the legendary Hanako, alleged to have lived for over 200 years. Unlike the amazing results of the meticulous care the Japanese give their koi, American koi live a fraction of that time, usually due to neglect and lack of care or proper environment.

Q How can I protect my koi against predators?

A Unfortunately, most people that come to me are frustrated people who already have a pond or a rather poorly planned pond. If your pond is shallow, less than 3 feet, or has a shallow end, the raccoons, coyotes, cranes, egrets, etc. have easy access to your fish. You may think your fish are safe because you have a deep end for the fish to retreat to. Well, you and your fish are dead wrong. A crane will stand perfectly still for 10 to 20 minutes waiting for the koi to forget he is there. Some will regurgitate chum into the deep pond, luring the fish to the surface. Your only solution is a net, or try the crane statue, scarecrow, or high-frequency sound emitters for smaller animals. However, one of my clients watched a crane land next to his crane statue. While the scarecrow was pelting him with a stream of water, it snatched up one of their prize koi.

A critter-proof pond is over 3 feet everywhere and has a raised deck 13″ minimum over the water surrounding the pond. Raccoons cannot swim and catch fish at the same time, and they or the birds will not be able to reach the water.

Q I would like to have a koi pond but I live in Michigan and every year ponds and lakes freeze over. Will they survive?

A There are fish in those lakes you are talking about: blue gill, bass, sunfish, carp, and they all survive. And guess what? Koi are in the carp family. Koi were originally raised for food in Japan. They would grow rice in the summer and then flood the rice patties and raise koi in the winter, cutting holes in the ice to catch them for food. However, your pond must be 4 ´ to 6 feet deep to ensure the water stays about 40 o the bottom. Turn off the waterfall and bottom drain, draw water from the skimmer to keep the bottom still. Place swimming pool solar blankets over the surface. If your pond is deep enough, you can let it freeze over. However, you need to install a horse tank heater to keep a hole open in the ice to allow any ammonia gas from rotting debris on the bottom to escape. If your pond is less than 4 ´ feet deep, take the koi indoors for the winter and place them in a garage or basement tank.

Q Can I keep koi and goldfish together?

A Yes, you can. They are both cold water fish and members of the carp family. Most other cold water fish can also swim together, such as shubunkins, rudd, orfe, blue gill, mosquito fish, guppies, sunfish, bass, etc. However, only in deeper ponds where the mean temperature is 65 degrees or less on the bottom for bass, sunfish and blue gill.

Q Should my pond have a bottom drain?

A First of all, a bottom drain is essential for a healthy pond. However, if it is exposed and the suction is strong enough, turtles or fish can get stuck to it and not be able to get loose. Therefore, two drains should be hooked in series to relieve the pressure between them, just as in a swimming pool. Bottom drains draw falling waste from the fish before it reaches the bottom, keeping it clean. Areas where it does build up can be swept to the drains for easy cleaning. If you are using a submersible pump or pulling the water from a skimmer, water is not circulating properly on the bottom of the pond. That is where rotting debris is producing ammonia and other toxic gases.

Q My pond water is very clear, but my fish are dying. What is wrong?

A Drinking water might taste good, smell good, and look clear. But some of the most toxic chemicals that are known to cause cancer are colorless, odorless and tasteless. I recommend that you purchase a test kit form a pond store and check your water regularly. Nitrates, nitrite and ammonia are all detrimental to fish. Ammonia and nitrite can, at high levels, be fatal to fish. These substances are dissolved in the water and consequently are impossible to detect by the clarity of the water and they can break down the fishes’ immune system.

Q What type of filter do you recommend?

A For any pond over 1000 gallons, I recommend a pressurized biological bead filter that can be back washed. I have used Aqua Ultraviolet Ultima II filters for years. Most larger pond suppliers carry them. Their filters range from 1000 gallons to 10,000 gallons. Up-flow and gravity flow filters require regular cleaning, which is a filthy job. The filter media is packed with stinky, putrid fish waste and decaying pond scum. As you handle the filter screens, media, scrubbers, etc., you will have little white feces-eating worms that are 1/16″ long crawling on your hands and arms. Not to mention the noxious smell that burns your eyes and lungs.

It cost pennies on the dollar to make, yet dealers charge a fortune. You pay the price for the filter and in the time it takes to maintain it you pay an additional cost for your time maintaining it. With a pressurized filter, it only takes the turn of a handle for 2 to 3 minutes and the filter is clean. The waste water is not wasted either. You can water your plants with it using the discharge hose. If you can imagine, that brown, colored, stinky water is packed with nitrogen. It’s better than Miracle Grow T.M. I have used my 6000 gallon Ultima II for over eight years and it works as well now as they day it was installed. Happy, happy fish!

Q How much does an average pond cost?

A What is average? It depends on whether you are talking about a liner pond or a professional concrete and rebar pond. A typical liner pond can be 6 feet by 8 feet, and depending on who is installing it, could cost between $2,500 and $3,500. The other dimensions are pretty much proportionate. Liner ponds are susceptible to leaks from punctures, gophers, and rats, etc. Concrete ponds last for decades and on the average cost only 20% more than liner ponds.

Q My pond is green and I can not see my fish. What should I do?

A Your challenge is algae (suspended planktonic algae), which does not directly hurt the fish. However, algae gives off oxygen during the day from photosynthesis. But unfortunately, it uses up oxygen at night. In addition, it is unsightly and blocks the view of the fish. You can increase the salt content or install an ultraviolet light, which not only kills spore algae but kills the bacteria that causes the water to become murky and stinky.

Q I heard that UV light will also kill the beneficial bacteria. Is that true?

A If I say “No,” I am calling many so-called professional experts liars. So I will put it this way. All the beneficial pond bacteria such as aerobic or anaerobic bacteria, nitrobacter, etc., reside in the filter or in the decaying debris at the bottom of the pond. They aren’t floating around in the pond. Bacteria and algae containing pathogenic disease are, and as they pass through the UV light, they are eradicated.

Q Do I need a waterfall for my pond?

A With no hesitation, YES! Most definitely. First of all, waterfalls are beautiful to look at. The sound is soothing and relaxing and the water moving over rocks generates negative ions which are added to the air. As you breathe negatively charged air, it relieves stress and anxiety. Waterfalls also add extra oxygen to the pond. Waterfalls are a must!

Q I heard concrete ponds will leach alkali into the pond. Is that true?

A Yes and no. A poorly constructed concrete pond will, but only until algae starts growing on the sides. Also if the pond is constructed of 3500 psi concrete and coated with Thoro-seal T.M., it is impossible for alkali to leach out. Plus, if you use Doug Hoover’s secret mortar mix formula, the mortar in the waterfall between the rock will not leach either.

Q What is the advantage of building a waterfall using concrete and mortar?

A A major reason is that the rock will be securely mortared in place, preventing a serious accident from rocks sliding, as with a liner waterfall. Trust me, some day, some adventurous child will climb onto it. That is a lawsuit in the making.

Happy koi, peace & joy.